Archive for January, 2005

The Anatomy of a Backpacker

Monday, January 31st, 2005

The Anatomy of a Backpacker.

The common spotted backpacker (homo-backpackerous) can be found most often in the countries of New Zealand and Australia. They are migatory creatures and spend the winter months (and sometimes the entire year) in the Southern hemisphere escaping the harsh winters of their native North European countries.

Easily spotted by their distinctive humps these young 20-something mammals travel often in groups (known as a “bus”) but also alone. Their humps grow as the season continues. At first both the male and the female of the species have a back hump, something about the size of a pack and one small daysack sized hump they carry in their skinny white arms. As their trip continues the back hump stays about the same size but the small hump moves to the front of their bodies to make room for more smaller tote bag size humps they carry in their now not-so-white but still just as skinny arms. Nalgene bottles grow from these humps in odd places.

Once per day, as the sun sets, all the backpackers in a particular area will descend upon a few number of nests they will use for the night. These nests are known as hostels and, in places, demand outstrips supply and a frenzy ensues as they scramble for shelter for night. Often the backpacker will attempt to plan their itinerary and book ahead but the backpacker has little consideration for confirmed reservations when there is fun to had. Credit cards are now the preferred form of barter to confirm a spot in the nest for the evening. Although designed as temporary nesting areas, some backpackers will use a hostel in a more permanent fashion thereby causing stress to other more transient backpackers. For these backpackers who stay semi-permantly their days are spent on useless hunting gathering tasks as they hunt for menial jobs and gather minimum wage when they find one. This is an illusion that perhaps one day the forces of evolution will fix, for their wage is barely enough to survive so when they finally do leave this nest their stores for the next leg of the journey are no more full than when they arrived.

The nesting place known as The Hostel is an interesting structure. Backpackers are by nature solitary creatures so when forced act as a community strange rituals are performed. Food that has previously been gathered must be clearly marked as not to stolen by others of the species. Whereas in nature a scent usually does the trick, the backpacker must resort to use of the sharpie. Some things that look free to unsuspecting backpacker may in fact belong to someone and their use may cause eviction from the nest. Only things clearly marked with the pictogram “F”, “R”, “E”, “E” are truly for the use of the community (unless of course an enterprising backpacker crosses out the image and marks it with their own). These rules are complicated and the young backpacker must find them out by trial and error. It is worth noting that for many of this strange species this is the first time they have left the family nest and mother is no longer around to help out her poor cubs. No where is this more evident than in the part of the nest known as the kitchen. Many signs left by the elders of the hostel warn it’s temporary residents that their “mother doesn’t live here” so they should “wash up and put away your own dishes”.

Sleeping arrangements are complex in the nesting hostel. There is a definite hierarchy. Those at the bottom of the tree share areas known as dorms. Often there are eight or more backpackers of mixed gender sharing the same space. Again although this is communal living there is very little community and the solitary nature of the creature becomes apparent. Teritory is key. Very little sleeping goes on in the dorm area as multiple backpackers all need to relieve themselves at various points in the night and some retire late and some rise early. Next up on the hierarchy are the areas known as “twin rooms”. These are for backpackers traveling in pairs. This arrangement provides both companionship and a chance for better sleeping quarters. Sometimes individual backpackers will form uneasy alliances to afford themselves these rights but, again, being solitary and selfish creatures, they rarely last more than a few days. The final and newly created category of sleeping arrangement is known to the pack as “doubles”. The interesting fact about doubles is that on first glance they appear to be inhabited by backpackers but on closer inspection are almost always taken up by Rollaboards (homo-rollaboardous) a sub-species of the common spotted backpacker. These are older, wiser and more affluent ex-backpackers whose humps are pulled behind them on wheels. They take a free ride on the infrastructure they helped create when they were backpackers thereby creating less dorm space and therefore less mess in the nest. Rollaboards in doubles are always mating pairs.

The diet of the common spotted backpacker is almost exclusively Raman noodles and beer. At this stage in the physical development of the young backpacker the natural high gained from the alcohol found in beer is more important than the nutrients found in fresh food. It takes more effort for the backpacker to forage for fresh food where Raman noodles can be found under any bush or Star Mart. Obvious visual signs of malnourishment are disguised by a browning of the skin (known as a tan) and the usual effects of too much of the naturally occurring alcohol imbibed the previous night. It is a wonder evolution has not naturally de-selected this species.

Dawn rises over the nest and it is time for these young backpackers to shrug their humps and migrate to their next destination to repeat this complex ritual over again.

Don’t forget to check out our first gallery and our second gallery and all our extreme sports mad stuff.

No Shoes

Friday, January 28th, 2005

Sarah says:

Following our stay in Taupo we were planning to head straight across to a coastal town called Gisborne but realized the drive would be longer for one day than we wanted. We decided to break it up by heading north a bit and following the coast road all the way around – this was turned out to be one of the best decisions we’ve made so far and not only because Gisborne turned out to be a shitty little town. Anyway, we headed for a little beach town called Opotiki and stayed at a kind of beach shack backpackers. We pulled up to the place and it’s this little bungalow on maybe a half acre of land RIGHT on the beach. The house is surrounded by these amazing tropical flowers and the beach is empty and gorgeous. The house didn’t look like much from the outside but it took about 2 seconds once inside to see that it was about perfect. The owner was this super tan Kiwi guy who, I’m sure, hasn’t seen a pair of shoes in decades. The place is small – can maybe sleep 15 – and it was nearly empty so we had everything kind of to ourselves. All the rooms opened up to the beach and he had 2 great massive decks and a bbq – it was just awesome. We took two of his boogie boards and, at like 5:00pm, headed to the beach for a swim. The water was like bathwater – I mean it was the most gorgeous ocean water we’ve been in so far. I could hear David over there taking waves in screaming “woohoooooooo” all the way. You really couldn’t have asked for a more perfect place. So we sat on the deck with a bottle of wine contemplating if we could ever give everything up and just buy some shack on the beach and never have to wear shoes again. Something to think about for sure.

We had one more perfect night like that. The owner of that place, Steve, suggested we stay at his mate’s place the next night. The next beach town was called Tokomura Bay and was about 3 hours down the road. Same thing: little house, no worries, no shoes. We met a guy from Ireland and a guy from the Netherlands and went down the pub with them – please see David’s entry on our first Maori encounter. Anyway, good on us for taking the longer way around as I would definately count those nights as highlights.

We do have pictures and we’ll be uploading a batch when we get to Wellington in the next couple days. Sorry for the delay. It’s not always easy to find a place that can do it and everything – well just about everything – closes at 5:00pm in NZ which has made coming to internet cafes a bit tricky sometimes.

Take care and we’ll chat again soon!

Don’t forget to check out our first gallery and our second gallery and all our extreme sports mad stuff.

Whoosh! This is crazy!

Sunday, January 23rd, 2005

Sarah says:

Who thinks rafting over a 21′ waterfall is the craziest thing we would possibly get ourselves into down here? Who amongst this little group of friends knows that I’m the biggest ninny there is and can’t believe I got into the boat? Well, it’s adventure city, folks, for David and Sarah and we just can’t seem to get enough!

The rafting just wasn’t enough for one day so following that we rented mountain bikes and had an absolute blast! I lie, really. The pictures we have posted make us look really soft but we couldn’t get the really impressive stuff because, basically, it was kicking our arses. We are extremely fit people, no doubt, but the mountain nearly had us for lunch. :) We did get a lovely vista from it, though, but don’t think we’ll be taking up mountain biking back in good old Washington.

Next: we are on to caving in Waitomo. We did 3 absails down black holes to about 60 meters (about 180 ft) below ground surface – the first one was super long and dark and the 2nd two were long and dark and through waterfalls. At the bottom we walked and swam through caves! We were feeling pretty cool about ourselves at that point :) So cool that in our next town, Taupo (where we are now) we tried rock wall climbing. I like the coming down better than the going up but David is an absolute reckless monkey and pretty much had the whole wall in the palm of his hand.

The premier adventure was today, though, by far. Check this out:

That’s me – coming down from 12,000 feet in the air! I can’t even begin to say how cool it was to fall out of a plane and see the earth below. we happened to be above one of the most beautiful turquoise lakes I’ve ever seen in my life. We did freefall for about 45 seconds and then the parachute went up and it took about another 5 minutes to land. I really can’t believe I did it. I was pretty terrified during the flight up but I had an excellent guide and David as also there and, honestly, when I was shuffled to the door of the plane and my feet were dangling out over the edge – I really was not scared anymore. It’s just the most amazing thing you can do and I’m so, so, so glad to have done it. Thanks David for convincing me and booking it for me when I wasn’t in the room to hear you doing it. Awesome day, guys.

Next we’re heading back to the beaches of Gisborne. Talk to you then!

Don’t forget to check out our first gallery and our second gallery and all our extreme sports mad stuff.

Splash!!

Tuesday, January 18th, 2005

Dave Says:
OK, This is one the wildest things I’ve ever done. Take a perfectly fine raft, fill it with tourists who have more money than sense and throw the whole lot off a 21′ waterfall. Sounds crazy? It is!!

Today we white water rafted down a stretch of the Kaituna River in Rotorua. It’s a grade 5 stretch of river. Where grade 1 is what the pre-schoolers raft and grade 6 is what NOBODY rafts. That makes grade 5 only where the certifiably insane go. The whole stint took around an hour and we navigated our way through a number of rapids and three waterfalls of which the 21′ guy was the granddaddy of them all. (I’m sure non-tourist raft bigger ones but we’re celebrating a world record nevertheless).

Sarah asks you all to forget the highlights she listed in the last blog entry. This, she says, “was totally stellar bro’ – a choice experience”. Sarah, of course, doesn’t normally use such superlatives but feels the whole thing (including the instructions on what to do in the case of capsize) was amazing.

Anyhow, we paid even more money for the pictures they took of us so be sure to follow the link below to see how crazy we really are.

Don’t forget to check out our first gallery and our second gallery and some rafting pictures.

Mud and eggs

Monday, January 17th, 2005

Sarah says:

Dear Friends and Family,
Before I go on to our latest trip highlights, I feel I must dispel an awful misunderstanding circulating amongst everyone posting on our blog. It seems everyone is certain David is taking photos of me drunk and posting them on our site. I must explain that those photos merely represent what I look like after traveling for 15 hours, arriving in a foreign country at 6 o’clock in the morning with no luggage, changing into my boyfriends clothing to meander around a new city trying to stay awake for the rest of the day. Most everyone reading this has, at one time or another, had a beer or two with me and can confirm that I usually look much cuter:) I promise I was not drunk – just without make-up.

Now, on to the latest!
New Zealand Highlights:
1. driving on the other side of the road is quite fun and, so far, I’m doing well. I don’t even have to wear my pink bandana on my right wrist anymore – there to remind me to keep it toward the center of the road (see pictures). I got pretty flustered at my first big round-about and had to ask David to turn down the “Go-go party girl” compilation tape he made for me so that I could concentrate and, voila, we made it to the other side.
2. Snickers with hazelnuts. super yummy.
3. hiked around a forest to see the largest trees I’ve ever seen in my life – see pictures.
4. the sun and sand have been amazing here. this country is just so stunningly beautiful. we’ve been driving all over the north island – with 2 1/2 more weeks to go of hopping from town to town, and we continue to be blown away by how pretty everything is. there also doesn’t happen to be a straight stretch of road anywhere. This would be on the lowlights list if I didn’t have motion sickness patches. But I do – so it’s on this list.
5. for my sweetheart: women’s world championship beach volleyball. per David, “there is nothing wrong with this sport”.
6. mud bathing:

things hard to get used to:
1. that we don’t have jobs to go back to on Monday. We haven’t really lost the feeling yet that this isn’t a normal 2 week holiday and we’ll be flying home soon to head back to the office. we are hoping the bohemian feeling falls on us soon – I’m sure not washing my hair for 4 days is helping :)
2. that this is really NZ’s summer. I just can’t get my head around having January conjure images of beach and cold beer. It just seems like we are vacationing in a place that happens to be hot this time of year.
3. an average meal costing $30-. Please see David’s forthcoming food expose.

Again, thank you everyone for keeping in touch with us! For those interested, we are now in a town called Rotorua, famous for thermal pools and smelling of putrid eggs. Our next town is Waitomo where we will be absailing into caves and tubing along underground rivers. Stay tuned for more adventures. Oh! And check out how my golden tan is coming along!

Don’t forget to check out our gallery

The Seaside

Friday, January 14th, 2005

Dave Says:
We’re at the seaside. Strange I should use such an English turn of phrase but NZ seems to be more British than I can stand. All of the little things I’d forgotten about are perfectly preserved in the Kiwi way of life. For example, there are butcher shops, chemists, hairdressers. The shops open at 9am and close around 5pm. You don’t tip wait staff. In fact, I left a tip yesterday and the server ran after me to say that I’d left money on the table. Everyone drives on the left (even Sarah after a little training), the roads are small and the road signs are exactly the same as the UK. The roundabout is welcomed back by this driver with open arms.

Anyway, I digress. We’re at the seaside in a little town (that starts with the letter “w” – they all do actually) somewhere on the Coromandal peninsula in the NE corner of the North Island. The weather is great. Hot and sunny.

Check this out. Yesterday we went to a beach called Hot Water Beach which, as it’s name suggests, has hot water. One rents a spade for $2 and digs a hole in the sand. After digging down about a foot, scalding hot water bubbles up and you sit in your personalized sandy hot tub wondering just how this witchcraft works. Then your legs get scalded and you run into the ocean to cool off. Rinse and repeat. Strange but true and we have pictures to prove it.

Don’t forget to check out our gallery

The Pirates of Paihia

Tuesday, January 11th, 2005

Dave says:
At last sun. In fact, so much sun we’ve gone from pasty white to lobster red in twenty minutes. Actually, we’re turning a healthy shade of tan as we find ourselves in the New Zealand equivalent of the San Juan Islands. The place is called The Bay of Islands and we’re in a little beach town called Paihia up in the top northeast corner of the north island.

Yesterday was a day spent under sail. One of my favorite things to do! We set sail on the good ship “She’s a Lady” (named after the Tom Jones song I hope) around 10am and proceeded to “gunkhole” (that’s a nautical term) from island to island. We stopped for a sandwich on a small beach, kayaked, hiked and headed back in time for late afternoon beer.

Today, it being a Tuesday (we think) we did laundry! Doesn’t sound very exciting but the smell of clean clothes when one is down to their last pair of knickers is quite heavenly. Laundry didn’t take long at all so we had time to hop another boat over to a small town called Russell. Something really important happened in Russell in eighteen hundred and something but I can’t quite remember what it was. Lots of other really important things happened around this region about the same time too. They generally involve an explorer from Europe, some natives from NZ (who aren’t really natives but they got here a few hundred years earlier so claimed bragging rights as well as land) and sweet potatoes. Anyhow, needless to say that the town is cute and teaming with tourists. On the tourist side, we noticed there are tons of Brits here. Apart from the obvious reason another clue to their ubiquity could be that there are over two NZ dollars to the UK pound so these (my) people are once again living it large in a (former) colony. FYI – There are one and a little bit NZ$ to the wheezing US$ right now.

Speaking of wheezing, we’re both doing a lot better health wise now the rain has gone and our skins are flooded with vitamin D.

Tomorrow we move on. I believe we’re going to hike around some really really large trees. It may take a day just to make it around one of these guys. I joke (obviously) but I do believe them to have a diameter around five meters or more. Everything here is made from those trees which is not surprising really. Then on to another part of the country where we’ll do some more stuff. That, my friends, is about as exact as our plans get these days.

Oh – and now we actually have pictures in the gallery.

Don’t forget to check out our gallery

Oh again – Forgot to mention we went to a place called Sheep World. I thought the Americans had the monopoly on tourist attractions suffixed with “world” or “universe” but aparently not. In Sheep World one can find, well, sheep really. Here’s one right now: